Culligan Water Softener Repair

How to replace your seals in a Culligan Water Softener.

Seal pack replacement. The end contains a URL which is a forum. The post/thread has a link to a very good manual that shows the function of the valve system. Don't be afraid to take this apart, it ain't rocket science! Bypass the softener first, run it through a cycle to depressurize it, unplug it to avoid shock!

My symptom was no draw from the brine tank (using no salt).
104 комментариев
Jerry Johnson
great video.I just got done working on mine, painful.
Thx for the feedback. I know that guys that do this all the time can probably do this with their eyes closed in 1/4 the time. The problem with home owner repairs is that this is usually a one time operation, so you always have to learn a lesson or two the hard way.
There is a bypass valve on the back that should bypass the entire softener. That should stop "waisting" water. What part broke? The main valve has a movable piston that is connected to the small metal rod that "sticks out" of the valve body. Did the part of the valve body break? If U send me your email address I can send U an installation manual that may give U more insight of how the softener directs water in the different stages. A dealer has commented that sells the assembly for a fair price.
Matt, If I ever need a kit again, please give me the number of your dealership so I can purchase from you...
Mitsy Shreve
Matt where is your dealership? I need 2 of these kits and $63 is sooo much better than $185. Is there a part number associated with this kit?
$63 is fair, $185 for parts and labor is fair. The dealer I went through did not offer that deal.
Matt D
the only place to get the seal pack and the other parts is from culligan. My dealership sells the kit for $63. The price he quotes of $185 is what we (my dealership) charges to change it for you. The seals in the seal pack and on the brine piston are really the only things to break on these softeners. Other than that they can easily last for 20 years without problems.
Chris Bartek
ok thank you
Unfortunately, I had to buy a kit from Culligan for the low low price of $185 !! I needed some $0.50 o-rings.The o-rings are really more like a D-Ring, so they may be impossible to find. They actually have more of a "T" cross-section with the bottom on the T creating the sealing surface against the piston. The bottom is a semicircle. I was determined to find the o-rings for dirt cheap, but I had to give-in since my water was becoming harder by the day.
Chris Bartek
where did you get the o ring repair kit from ??
Sandra u have to take off the central valve and lubrificate or change their o-ring if are torn or broken... Your plant should be blocked in a step that download water And cant go to the next step 1)if the central valve cant move easily or 2) if this valve have some torn oring
Danny Noble
thanks for the video, this helped me discover that the valve body stem is a lot bigger than i thought.
Sandra, I am not at home at the moment. If I get a chance I will look at the manual. Check to see if the motor has returned to its home position. You should be able to manually index the one control wheel by hand slowly to make sure the motor and cam are at least pushing the internal control valves back and forth to the various positions.
Sandra Lodato
Hi thanks for the info, however just have a question. The system wont stop running now had to bypass it, ever had this issue, what do you think is causing this?
I was looking for something like this too, and nothing existed and I figured others might find it useful. $175 for 2 odd sized o-rings should be ilegal. There should be a consumer protection law to prevent 1,000 times mark up on small appliance parts and things like this. It's not like it takes much warehouse space/rent to store o-rings. And, there is not much high tech Research and Development money that was required to design these parts. I have a repair manual if U want me to email it to U.
julieanna bbking
Thankyou you very much ....I have been looking for this for a long time,,,,
Steve Cristaldi
Thanks for this video. Much appreciated. I have a Culligan Mark 89. Just started a small leak between the device and the tank. Any ideas from anyone?
Nigel Maybury
Great video, thank you. Really helpful. I tweeted it :)
Please tell or show us how you remove the outer assembly of the lower section that has the o-rings around that 2.5" long x 5/8" diameter main piston?
My piston is plastic coated brass and has corroded to the point where it allows water to trickle continuously into the backflush line. :(
Gene Gene
Thanks for the info Tom. I have the same units that I want to take apart to rebuild also. I emailed you a message as well. 
If you still have the water softener could you do a video on how to set the time and date and backflush. Thanks
yue ikemasu
My home is a old one I don't know how to make sure that works
Jose F Guzman
Great info. Thanks for taking the time.
Carlos Morgan
Yes Culligan don't load a internet load information, you right
Thank you for the video. Mine is leaking from the backside of the metal plate. Although I think I can figure this out by the video and comments, just to be safe could you please email me the service manual? [email protected](that's a zero)
Carlos Morgan
Just the seal where I can getting please
John Capron
I assume the seal pack is universal for all Culligan units?
Teddy Sharkey
Will that make the mk 89 drain all the time?
You guys might want to install a whole-house 10-inch water filter before the softener system. It may help with iron deposits.
xiaodong zhang
I have a piece of the valve broke, which holds the O-ring. Do you still have the old part so I can buy from you? Please let me know. Thank you.
Ed L
How about posting the O ring sizes for the valve actuator and the ejector system.
Moshe Fuld
looking to buy a seal pack can somebody provide me with a link
Looks like I'm now one of the club, all I need are the white washers. Has anybody tried making the washers? They are very close to the size of a common hose bib washer but thinner. I measured about .990" OD, .606" ID, guessing they should be about .095" thick or less to remain flexible. Is it worth making a punch and die?

I forgot to ask if anyone would know the size of the o rings on the seal pack assembly?
Yonsi fronda
hi just wondering where can i find a parts for this? any website?
Thanks for the video, and thanks to those who added helpful comments. Mine just has a slow leak from the drain hose, otherwise works fine. I will add this to my list of things to do on a rainy day.
Jing Ming He
Thank you for the video, I have the same white washer fault
James Ryan
i have serviced water softeners for 17 yrs and culligan may be the least user friendly softeners out there, aqua systems are the best user friendly softeners out there today.
Greg Holmlund
I will check it out. thanks!
Gary Hood
Thanks for the video. My culligan softener has a high pressure leak between the unit and the resin tank. The connector collar screws are tight. Any ideas for the leak?
This worked great, the only thing I would add is when I pulled out the parts they were pretty caked up, so I soaked them in toilet bowl cleaner (Do this outside do to the fumes), then moved the o-rings over one space and regressed with "Slilcone" not grease as you said, very important with o-rings! Working like a champ...big thank you!
I have a 10 x 40 Medalist TC. The shut offf valve with the red and blue caps is stuck and will not budge. Any suggestion how to resolve this problem, and does anyone have a copy of the Culligan repair manual to share?
j smitty
Thanks, I used your video 3 years ago to replace a seal kit. At the time, water was constantly running out the drain.
Now my problem is a leaking (hissing) sound in the valve somewhere, and salty tasting drinking water.
Do you have a good enough understanding of the system to give me advice about what part may be leaking?
Can you e-mail the repair manual to [email protected] I bought a house with one of these in it.. 2 repairs in 5 years, each $200 for someone to come out.. Ridiculous, I am going to take it apart.
Green Bay area store wanted 199.58 for seal pack, service charge 98.00 for 15 minutes then parts and labor. Are you kidding? And I could not find any place to purchase the parts so I could do. Soooo... I will be purchasing a different water softener ... never want to deal with these ripoff Culligan smucks again ever.
Jan Ames
Thank you for saving me $$. Paid Culligan $150 a few years ago and same problem came back. I probably haven 't had soft water for a while. I must have finally entered the right search to find this video showing me how to take it apart & do the lubrication. The same seal you had 2nd from the end was damaged, I moved it to the first position for now & got my system working. yay. guess I'll have to see if I can locate the part if it sticks again.
Digital Ink Arts
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have the Silver Series. My last water bill was $300. Pretty high from the usual $90. Come to find out the unit keeps pushing out water. I have taken it all apart and inspected. Everything looks good. I have not dis assembled the mechanics from the face yet and get in side. I do not know if anything there is causing the issue. I havent seen that piston with the rings yet. I guess I need to take it all apart.
What were the symptoms? You need to know this to troubleshoot
Kristofer Karr
I just pulled my seal pack out of my mark 89. it was installed in 88 and I have lived in the house for nearly 20yrs and never did anything with it. Now it won't get of backwash mode. Pulled piston out and it was corroded really bad. So I have been looking for total rebuild kits online and can't find one. Do you have to call Culligan direct to get any parts. Found a new seal piston on ebay but I want whole new seal pack assembly. Any place online to look?
Any idea where I can get the seal pack?
Roy Sakabu
Nice video. It's easiest to remove the head from the resin tank. Unscrew the Phillips head bolts from the top metal bracket above the head and the head slides off from back to front. Some newer models have another bolt holding the head on to the resin tank fittings but my 30 year old Mark 89 was purely a friction fit. Remove the horseshoe clip at the back of the head and use a section of 1" PVC pipe to drive the piston out either front to back or back to front, it doesn't matter. I used a 3# Harbor Freight plastic mallet. The new piston kit already has silicone grease on it so there is no need to lube it before installing it. The $100 Culligan kit also has a replacement white housing above the main valve pack as well as the tan needle valve so it's wise to replace those.

I also replaced the O-rings on the fittings between the head and the bypass valve which cost an extra $6. It's a good idea to remove the top triangle plate to clean out the eductor (salt sucking) screen and use a thin wire to make sure the tiny hole in the tan eductor port is clear. 20 minutes later everything was reassembled, working and hopefully good for another decade.

If you're not inclined to do this, just call Culligan and have a service tech do it. It will probably cost an additional $100-$150 but it's worth it. I did that the first time, the second time I brought the head in to Culligan to have them replace the parts, this time I just did all the work myself.
Thanks for this video. My softener is the mark 88 and it is leaking to the drain constantly.  I don't want to call a repair guy because it will cost too much.  My other problem is the bypass valve - it is completely seized and won't budge at all, so I'll have to turn off the water at the pump to do any work.
D. R. K. Miller

How did you know your system was not work?

Here's what going on what my.  When I manual regenerate, the cam moves, but nothing happens, just hamming from the switch.  Was this the problem???  Can anyone recommend what to do?? Please...
Jeff Obst
I have the same system. My unit is constantly backwashing. Only shuts off by pushing bypass. Any idea what would case that?
John Hoehaver
The main black piston; to take it out does it come right out? Or is it secured inside the chamber by the U shaped clamp that is hidden underneath the canaster pipe brace...??
Pieter Devyver
If you have a medallist version : this movie is also very interesting : Culligan Medalist rebuilding instructions 
Michele Taylor
How do you stop the water from running   It will not shut off
D. R. K. Miller
Update on Culligan Softener Hi-flo 2. 

You video helped greatly.  Here's what I found:

a.  The brine assembly (inside the control valve assembly ) was damage.  The screen around the assembly was damage.  I removed the damage screen and a cleaned it out.
Right on the brine assembly has no screen on it.
b.  Cleaned the en ductor assembly.
c.  Cleaned the brine salt container valve assembly (NASTY)

I PRAYED, then I started the Manual Regeneration.  And the results were.  THE SYSTEM WORKS Again!!!!!!!

Outcome:  Saved $200.00 service call, And ext: $300.00 for parts and labor, or a new water softener $1000 or $2000.  

Mahalo nui loa (Thank you very much) 
You did a great job on your video, I had the exact same problem and had to replace the seals on seal pack assembly.  Culligan wanted $75.00 for the kit and after looking at the seal pack assembly I thought I would give it a try going to a hardware store and buy the o-rings.  I was surprised they had them for .75 cents each.  I had a huge buildup up of iron deposits that took forever to clean up  but it was worth it.  I installed all the new o-rings with no problem.  I couldn't figure out how reinstall the drive motor.  Your video really helped with that part.  Thanks
I live in Los Angeles. My Mark 100 with Aqua Sensor came up with a CS (Call Customer Service) code. After noticing the brine piston was binding and leaking, Culligan in Santa Ana wanted $300.00 for the seal pack. I replaced both but that did not clear the code. They told me to power down the system, unplug the circuit board then reconnect the power. At this point they said to reconnect the circuit board. CS code hasn't cleared. I've tried some other things which hasn't worked. I assume it's something different keeping the CS code.
Last resort I called Culligan to come to the house which is $155.00 for a service call. Any other ideas from anybody I'd appreciate it. Thanks
Raul Fuentes
I have a Culligan Medallist Series it is about 10 yrs old.I t was off time so I did fix the time and regenerate the system, but still there is no soft water the system is showing the right time I have regenerate the system a few time to no avail, there si a blue botton that says softwater and another red one that says push to bypass,the system was off time, I was told by Culligan to press the red botton to btpass I did that but I need to know if I need to press the blue botton to get soft water don't seems to enter the chamber. Do I need to retract the red one and push the blue?. Please help
How did you get the big valve out of the housing?  I have an E01 error that will not reset and I think the issue is with the metal piston -- it does not slide in and out of the valve easy.  I cannot pull the valve out of the housing to take it apart, clean and re-lube -- high iron content in our water and I fear its rusted in there.  Any ideas??
D Hamblet
I just bought a used Mark 815 softener and a green sand filter.  Both have the same heads on them.  Both need to be rebuilt.  I pulled them both apart today.  Thanks to the video it was a snap.  Hardest thing was getting the little clip back on the cam driven plunger.  Looking for a fair priced source for the parts.
James Griffith
Hello and thank you for the video I had the same thing happen to me two of the seals some how cut it made a grinding sound at the time, I took mine apart the same you did. I went to Culligan to find out I would need to order the complete assembly at about the same cost crazy. I got a hold of one of the guys that worked for them at one time and had some of the parts I needed as we were talking I told him about taking the housing apart and he told me that they take the assembly apart from the back not the front I have not tried this yet but I just told my wife I need to lube the unit so we don't have the problem again. Hope the info helps you for the next time and others that have the same problem.   
Okay, so I took the softener apart, but my seal assembly did not come out entirely. Just the first half. The rest of it won't budge. I'm trying to figure out how to push it from the back.  At the same time, I'm also working on the bypass valve that seized. I got it moving, but now it's leaking. I can't figure out how to take it apart.
smitty smithers
lower piston is called a seal pack.$69.00 upper piston is called eductor piston with sleeve. $39.95. in store in oklahoma. ;) im the culligan man. plastic gets brittle on lower piston so its best just to replace the whole piston and not just the orings if you have the money. and lube the pistons on the inside and out before u put it in.
Greg Holmlund
great video. I have a Mark 100 that I am having a issue with. I have to manually push the 'regenerate' to cycle it. Even doing that, the water does not seem soft and I am using very little salt. I have not had to put any in for at least 4 months. Do you have any suggestions?
The white teflon last very long 20 years+ the new $200 seal pack comes with black inner rings that are rubber and are junk. Last maybe 2 years, so don't by it or reuse your old white seals if still good, anything but black ones. This comes from an experienced Culligan guy.
D. R. K. Miller
What is the Culligan Part Number. Please
I'm just going to keep it short & simple. I had to get a water cooler for the office I work at & spoke with the Irving, TX location. Now I am stuck paying the early termination fee out of pocket. My experiences with Culligan from the beginning to end went from okay to terrible in one day. They do not have competitive prices & you can get a better deal with Ozarka. I will never recommend Culligan to anyone or another company. Thank you for ruining my Monday.
Nigel Maybury
Here's a useful website for many parts, except Culligan, Sears, EcoWater and CUNO, which all appear to be determined to lock us into their expensive maintenance and parts strategy: As teesalmon says near the end of his video, $185 for the seal pack replacement kit from Culligan, seems extremely expensive. Maybe it's time to replace the Culligan gear with a maintenance and salt free system, even if it costs $2500 to $3000 for the pleasure! (Search on "best water softener" to find them.)
Matthew Norton
Why not upload that manual to a google drive and post a link? Send it to me and I can do it if you are not sure how.

EDIT: OP sent me the manuals, here you go guys..
Further to my posting 5 days ago regarding my stuck shut off valve, prior to trying to attempting any repair, can anyone please advise where I can purchase the replacement "O" rings? my email address is [email protected]
D Hamblet
I need  the o-rings for the Eductor (brine valve) and the seal pack for the main valve.  ANyone knows where I can get them for a decent price ping me at [email protected] Thanks
John Hoehaver
[email protected] repair manual please??
david mohr
im a cullgan repairman and this guy is ass backwards pull the clip on the cam remove cam,now remove lil screw w/phillups  oh hell take screw out of microprocesser and move aside then the remove larger phillups screws under drive motor mve all to the side,grab hold of bottom piston and pull then the same with brine pison(the smaller one) on top replace with new and reverse process putting back together the hardest part is putting the lil clip back on the cam lol